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Mount Athabasca – July 5th 2011

July 14, 2011

Out to summit a Canadian classic I partnered up with guide Conrad Janzen and tackled Mount Athabasca (3491m). This being my first pure alpine climbing experience (no skiing) and my first time out with Conrad (whom I met at Fairy Meadows in April while he was guiding an ACC group of 8 ) I wasn’t sure what to expect. All in all it was a perfect day with good company, great weather a successful summit and near perfect conditions.

Scoping out Athabasca the night before….

With all of BC having a pretty heavy spring snowpack conditions turned out to be an icy crust over very hard snow throughout the whole climb. The day started at with an early 2am alarm at our roadside camping spot and we were on trail up the moraine for a 3am start. Once up the moraine it was glacier time as we approached our route up a variation of the North Face.

Morning glow….

Our route went up the face to the notch on the left side of the north face, from there we traversed across the snow ledge and up a tiny couloir before climbing a snow/rock mix to the summit ridge.

Face shot….

Looking back to the road (start point)….

Top of the notch…

Traversing the snowledge (feeling very exposed!)…








Summit ridge climb…











Touristo Summit Shot!

Thats it. 12 hours start to finish and some very tired knees.

2 Comments leave one →
  1. t-man permalink
    July 16, 2011 8:02 am

    Yo dude! Looks like an awesome climb to the top. And just the two of you. Beats the Ben Nevis run hands down. Guess this is a good starter!

  2. t-man permalink
    July 16, 2011 8:05 am

    Spurted on some bad ass ice axes, I see

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